Once Upon a Time in the Vest

Showing posts with label Rick Lower. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rick Lower. Show all posts

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Vol. 3 No. 30 Ottavio Missoni, A Life Well Spent



Commemorative Postage Stamp


Today, Rick Lower sent us a note about the passing of Ottavio Missoni.     "Who is this man?" you may ask.  It was certainly a question I asked myself.  Checking him out on Google I found a fascinating individual. His history indicates that there is life after track.   He was from Croatia, born in Dubrovnik, but under Italian rule at the time he  displayed his track talents for the nation of Italy running in the European Championships in 1939, and he continued to do so after WWII.  He last competed in the 1948 Olympics in London and placed 6th in the 400m Hurdles. He met a 16 year old Italian beauty in London and married her a year later.  They went on to found a major fashion house specializing in high end wool clothing.  They also made the Italian team uniforms for the games in 1952.  He was a 47+ 400 runner and 53 second hurdler. He fought in the Battle of El Alemein in North Africa, was captured by the British and was a prisoner for four years. I found references in Italian, that he competed regularly in Master's level track in Italian, European, and World Championships.   He lived the good life afterward, but in the last year he lost his eldest son  and daughter-in-law who who had taken over running the family business, in a plane crash in Venezuela.  I'm including a number photos taken off the google pages.  If any of you would like to donate one of his sweaters, let me know.  You would have to be very wealthy or shop in exclusive second hand stores.  According to an article below, Target carried his brand at cut rate prices and sold out in a day.




Note that this is a wool fabric, probably his first big contract
in the fashion business




Converse Auckland Racer  $200 retail

Missoni  Nike Swaggerjacks

Track meet probably inside the Monza Formula 1 track or
the Avus Ring in Berlin

London Olympics 1948



From The Telegraph, May 10, 2013

Ottavio 'Tai' Missoni

Ottavio 'Tai' Missoni, who has died aged 92, was the founder of his eponymous family fashion house, which became famous for its colourful geometric knitwear; he was also a track star who represented Italy in the 400 metre hurdles at the 1948 “austerity” Olympics in London.
The two strands of his career are connected. For it was in London that the 27-year-old “Tai” Missoni met Rosita Jelmini, a 16-year-old Italian girl who happened to be in the crowd at Wembley on the day he was running in the finals (he came sixth); she was being chaperoned by nuns who ran the language school she attended.
She and Missoni married in 1953 and set up a small business called Maglificio Jolly, making woollen tracksuits, in Gallarate, near Bergamo, not far from Rosita’s home village. Later they moved on to knitwear, presenting their first collection in Milan in 1958, when they changed their label to Missoni.
To begin with the business lost money, but as demand for “ready-to-wear” began to take off in the early 1960s the Missonis found themselves inundated with requests from top Italian department stores to produce ready-to-wear variations on designs featured in the Paris collections.
Their work was spotted by Anna Piaggi, the influential Italian fashion editor, and another big break came in 1965 when they made a knitwear collection with the French designer Emmanuelle Khanh. However, the event that really put them on the map was a show in Florence that proved to be a huge (if unintended) succès de scandale.
In 1967 the Missonis were invited to show at the city’s Pitti Palace, but before the models went out on the catwalk Rosita noticed that their bras were showing through their lamé tops, ruining the intended effect; so she told them to remove the offending items of underwear. Under the catwalk lighting, however, the tops became totally transparent, sending the photographers into a snapping frenzy.
The show’s organisers did not see the funny side, accusing the Missonis of turning the Pitti Palace into a sort of “Crazy Horse” cabaret, and the couple were not invited to return the following year. Soon afterwards, however, they found themselves featuring on the covers of magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Women’s Wear Daily and Harper’s Bazaar. After moving to a new factory in Sumirago in 1969, with their designs championed by Vogue’s then editor Diana Vreeland, they opened their first in-store boutique, at Bloomingdale’s, in 1970, and their first directly owned boutique, in Milan, in 1976.
In the early 1970s the Missonis reached the peak of their influence in the fashion world. Their bold use of intricate zigzags, waves, multicolour stripes, checks and patchwork allowed women to mix, if not match, the most daring colours and patterns — for example, a striped skirt and chequered jacket with a patchwork scarf. It was Tai who did the watercolours and gouaches that settled the colour and patterns, while Rosita shaped them into the easy to wear clothes that have become design classics.
Unlike most of their early competitors, the Missonis weathered the vagaries of fashion and the financial markets, finding new ways of updating their characteristic style to accommodate even such trends as grunge and minimalism. The company’s archives feature more than 7,000 designs of stripes, zigzags, tartans, patchworks and mélanges in fibres including silks, cottons, linens, wools, rayons, mohairs and metallic yarns like Lurex.
“We have always tried to innovate, to revamp the concept of knitwear. We have always remained artisans,” Rosita explained in a recent interview. “We have never thrown anything out — even the unsuccessful models — as we knew they could lead us to some new idea.”
Today the company is a global brand run by the Missonis’ children and grandchildren, encompassing ready-to-wear, haute couture, household furnishings, scent and even luxury hotels. The label had a turnover of £59 million in 2012 and has 40 stores around the world. Riding high on the recent revival of interest in print and colour, Missoni designs are advertised by Kate Moss and worn by Hollywood actresses such as Kate Hudson and Demi Moore.
One of two children of a captain in the Italian Navy and a Dalmatian noblewoman, Ottavio Missoni was born on February 11 1921 in Dubrovnik and brought up in Zadar, a city on the Dalmatian coast of what is now Croatia.
Zadar was occupied by the Italians during the First World War and they remained in control until Italy capitulated in 1943, after which the city was taken over by the Germans and then heavily bombed by the Allies. At the end of the Second World War it became part of Yugoslavia.
As a boy Ottavio excelled in athletics, and in 1937, aged 16, he became the youngest member of Italy’s national team.
That year, in the 400 metres at an event in Milan, he beat the American Elroy Robinson, then the world record holder for the 880 yards, putting in a performance which, he was always proud to recall, remained the best ever by a 16 year-old in the 400 metres.
The following year he ran in the European Championships, and in 1939 won the 400 metres at the Italian Championships and at the World Student Games.
Missoni’s athletics career had to be put on hold during the Second World War, when he served in the Italian Army in North Africa. In 1942 he fought at El Alamein, but was captured by the British and spent the remainder of the war as a PoW in Egypt. “It wasn’t exactly a Club Med type of environment ideal for training,” he recalled.
Though not in top physical shape when he emerged, he was selected for the Italian team for the 1948 Olympics, an event he recalled in later life as being “beautiful, natural and spontaneous, not like now, when everything is inflated, blown out of proportion”. His trainer had a small knitting company in Trieste, and together they made woollen tracksuits for the Italian team that Missoni would later develop into his family business empire.
The laid-back Missoni liked to joke that when he and Rosita first set up shop he was the president but she would do all the work: “I’m lazy. My favourite pastimes are sleeping and reading, so work for me has always been an effort.”
Effort or not, his fabric designs, with their extraordinary range of textures and vivid colours, came to be seen as works of art, featuring in exhibitions at leading museums. Missoni also became involved in numerous other design projects, from interiors for Mazda cars and costumes for operas at La Scala, to carpets and tapestries.
Beginning in 1996, Tai and Rosita gradually passed control of their fashion empire to their children, and in 2011 Tai published his autobiography, Una vita sul filo di lana (“A life on the woollen thread”, written with Paolo Scandaletti), its title a pun referring to his twin successes as an athlete and fashion designer — before the arrival of photo-finishes, a thread was used to determine the winner of a race.
The final months of Missoni’s life were overshadowed by the disappearance in January of his eldest child, Vittorio, marketing director of the family business, with his wife and four others, while flying in a small plane during a holiday trip to an island off the coast of Venezuela. While wreckage of the plane has washed up on shore, their bodies have not been found.
Ottavio Missoni is survived by his wife and by their surviving son and daughter.

Ottavio Missoni, born February 11 1921, died May 9 2013


  • Missoni for Target line sells out, raises question 2011

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Missoni for Target line sells out, raises questions
Head to Bloomingdale's or Saks Fifth Avenue on any given day and you can purchase a cardigan from the legendary Italian fashion house Missoni for around $600, or a pair of heels for around $300. If you went to Target this past Tuesday, or shopped the retailer's e-commerce site, you could have purchased comparable items in the "Missoni for Target" line, with average prices of $40 and $30, respectively.
Lots of people did just that — some of them waiting in line outside the stores hours before they opened — and the result was a complete website crash, a manic rush for the shelves and a nearly completely sold-out inventory. Now, the question remains whether the admittedly odd pairing of the two brands has produced a net positive result for Target, or a swarm of customer ill-will.
"Missoni is so luxury driven, this is a huge deal," said Mary O'Brien, a New York fashionista who formerly worked at Bloomingdale's and now sells luxury apparel online. "Many people do not understand why a brand as exclusive as Missoni would ever even consider doing a line with Target."
Founded in 1953, Missoni knitwear is known for its distinctively colorful, zig-zag and geometric patterns. The company has also diversified over the years into carpet, perfumes and tapestries.
The partnership was announced earlier this year, with Target using the interim months to build excitement via blogs, social media, print and TV advertising and an appearance at New York Fashion Week. Giovanna Dimperio, advertising executive and sartorialist, said the retailer's buzz-building was amazingly effective.
"Target's PR team did a fantastic job generating buzz and getting placements," she said. "I believe about a month ago I learned the exact date it would be available, and marked my calendar."
Plenty of other people did too, evidently: By 7:47 am the target.com site was down, a courtesy message from the Target dog letting visitors know "we are suddenly extremely popular." From coast to coast, shoppers reported empty shelves as soon as a few minutes after the doors opened.

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"... literally snatched Missoni items out of each other's carts."
Shoppers waiting to buy Missoni products at Target
Lines form outside a San Diego Target, 30 minutes before opening.
(Photo by Susie Yoo.)
The fact that these products were in the "Missoni for Target" line and not the "real" Missoni line — they are admittedly lower in quality and are mass-produced, O'Brien said — wasn't enough to prevent shoppers from getting them, and a lot of them, at any cost.
In San Diego, lines started forming at 7:30, a half-hour before the store opened. Shopper Susie Yoo said she "watched in amused horror as grown women name-called and literally snatched Missoni items out of each other's carts" when the doors were opened. The store sold out of the items within 20 minutes, she said.
Heather Adessa had a similar experience at a New York location. She arrived at the store an hour and a half after it opened, and although the Missoni shelves were bare, many of the shoppers were still in the aisles with their loot.
"People were wheeling around carts with 5 pieces of the Missoni Luggage, 5 comforter sets, 10 pillows," she said. "It was insane. Then a group of women with carts and carts of products each gathered near the registers and were dividing up the products amongst each other. The Target employees sat there and saw them and didn't say anything."
"I was very lucky not to get trampled," said Amy Halloran, a self-professed "proud Missoni owner" in Chicago. "I have never in my life witnessed grown women acting so aggressive. I saw several women with small babies in their cart full of Missoni product who left their cart (and child) and ran toward a Target employee bringing out more shoes."
The online experience was a frustration for many, too. Jewelry designer Ann Marie Sclafani said she bought around $300 worth of product during the "one-hour blip that it was working." She got an email later in the day with expected ship dates. The next day, she got word that three of the items she bought are not available for the estimated ship date and she would not be charged until they were on the way. "However, I was already charged for the entire order," she said. "It was a total failure on so many levels as a consumer."
The Target website was back up by Wednesday morning, but most Missoni products are listed as "out of stock."
Lifestyle blogger Stacy Geisinger sums it up bluntly: "Target failed," she said. "Their website crashed. So much promotion and not enough product. They could have made a fortune. Instead they have many disappointed customers."
Geisinger said the racks at her New York Target were empty by 10 o'clock, and that people "just took as much as they could grab. The store was filled with so many disappointed women."
Retail Customer Experience blogger AnnaMaria Turano posits that while the partnership might have generated dollars and buzz for Target, it could "prove to be disastrous for Missoni's brand."
"Now that the expensive knitwear's iconic images are within the reach of the mass audience, Missoni may unfortunately experience backlash from their consumers who were loyal to the brand pre-Target," she writes in her latest post. "These Missoni loyalists might stop shopping and might stop wearing Missoni if they are concerned that others might confuse the boutique offerings with the made-for-Target line."
Geisinger also speculates that most of the shoppers were snapping up the product with the intention of reselling it online, and she may be right: As of this writing, the number of listings for Missoni for Target products on eBay is around 44,000 and rising by the minute.
Target did not respond to our request for comment.


















Monday, September 17, 2012

Vol. 2 No. 89 Fastballs and Distance Runners


   In 1967  This photo was taken at the end of the first lap at the Big 8 Conference Mile Run at Norman, Oklahoma.  The following correspondence between myself and Bill Blewett (Oklahoma U runner on the pole) and Dr. David Costill, renowned exercise physiologist discusses what distance runners and their coaches often must confront regarding when to back off and rest during periods of intense training and racing.  Bill is a physicist and has done extensive reading and study on the subject of racing and resting.  This aspect of sport carries across many disciplines and can be applied to the science  of pitching in baseball.      Bill has recently written a book  "The Science of the Fastball" (McFarland & Co.) coming out this December 5, 2012, but  it can be pre-ordered on numerous booksellers' websites.   He is also currently working on another book about distance running.  Recently several of you have written about overtraining.  We all know overtraining ourselves or an athlete we are coaching is about the easiet thing to do and one of the biggest mistakes one can make.  Trying to decide when enough is enough and convince a highly motivated athlete that he or she will not benefit from more work is constant problem in coaching.  We've all had our own experiences with this.  The most difficult thing to do  is to say , "Enough." ed. 

"Jim Ryun won the Big 8 mile that year in 4:08.5. If you look closely at the photo you'll see my nostrils flaring as I reached the quarter in 60.5 not feeling at all lightfooted as I had a week earlier when we ran Kansas in a dual meet in Norman. I led the Big 8 race for 2 1/4 laps. I was advancing to the rear of the pack by the 1320 mark (in 3:14) and took on a passenger in the last quarter mile to finish 14th out of 16."
Bill Blewett

That 8x10 has resided on my bookshelf for years, and one day about four years ago, I noticed for the first time the position of my left foot.  After just one lap of the race, I was already on my heels, an indication that I had lost my efficient foot mechanics (forefoot strike).  That's not supposed to happen, of course, until late in the race.  I ran a "personal worst" that day, just eight days after running a personal best.  I looked back at my workout log and found that I did nothing out of the ordinary in those eight days, and I had eased off in my training in the two days before the Big 8 meet.  Data from one of Dr. Costill's books indicate that a runner restores glycogen in about 48 hours after a workout (I have reprinted that graph with permission from TAFNEWS Press from "A Scientific Approach to Distance Running" in my book), so why were my calf muscles glycogen deficient eight days after the last race?  The answer, I found is that muscle damage that occurs with eccentric contractions slows the restoration of glycogen.  The only muscles that were sore after every mile race (or longer races) were my calf muscles.  As Dr. Costill says, it is due to the inflammatory response, and what I found in my literature search was a study indicating the macrophages, which do their work in the inflammation phase, vacuum up not only the debris from the muscle damage but also the glycogen granules that are stored among the myofibrils.  


One of the themes of the book about running I'm working on is that distance runners overtrain and over-race, and the main victims of this culture of overtraining are the high school runners.  Dr. Costill's statement is his email reply is very powerful relative to the issue of overtraining.

George, I think you'll find this article interesting.  It appeared in Baltimore Sun July 9.  I didn't have space (700 word max) to explain why muscle damage retards the restoration of glycogen, but it is an issue that first sparked my curiosity with regard to running; why did it sometimes take more than seven days for the calf muscles to fully recover from a mile race?  It is a very important issue in pitching.  

Bill


The biology of the midseason pitching slump

Fatigue sets in when fastballers don't have time to restore the glycogen in their muscles

July 09, 2012|By William Blewett
The All-Star Game brings more than just a midseason shot of excitement to Major League Baseball. It provides much-needed rest for the players, a four-day respite in a 162-game season that often produces fatigue and injury.
The players who most need rest are the starting pitchers, who, paradoxically, get the most rest during the season, playing only every fifth day. Yet, midseason pitching swoons, like the Oriole starters have recently experienced, are not uncommon.
Perhaps the best-known case of pitching fatigue to occur around the All-Star break was that of Bob Feller, the Cleveland fireballer who at age 17 struck out 17 batters in his fifth major-league start. In his third season, 1938, Mr. Feller fell into a slump after being selected as an all-star. He won nine games before the break, then lost nine games after it. His earned-run average for August soared to 8.71, up from 1.43 in May. Cleveland newspapers declared his fastball gone. No one knew why.
Modern science offers an explanation of Mr. Feller's power outage. The likely cause was fatigue of the most heavily worked muscles of pitching: the wrist flexors and finger flexors of the forearm.
A major-league fastball requires exceptional hand speed and arm speed, which demand an abundance of the powerful fast-glycolytic muscle fibers in the arm and shoulder — the same fiber type Olympic sprinters and jumpers rely on for explosive power. Physiologists have a second name for this high-performance fiber: fast-fatigable.

This fiber fatigues rapidly because its main energy source is a limited supply of microscopic glycogen granules stored in each fiber. A pitcher can deplete the glycogen from his forearm flexors in a single outing, but it takes more than a day to restore the glycogen. If there is substantial micro-trauma to the muscle fibers — a routine occurrence in pitchers' forearm muscles — restoration can take a week or more. The glycogen energy system, technically known as intramuscular storage of energy substrate, is much like a rechargeable battery.

Depletion of glycogen causes muscle fibers to lose power, to contract more slowly under a load. At very low glycogen levels, fibers can shut down — enter a state of stiffness — or begin to act like slow-twitch fibers, relying not on glycogen but on a very small, less-powerful aerobic capacity.
This leads to differential fatigue, in which the flexion of the wrist and fingers lags the arm in its high-speed rotation. The result: the pitcher loses his precise coordination between the two fastest movements of pitching: forward arm rotation, with speeds as high as 10,000 degrees per second, and wrist flexion, up to 4,500 degrees per second.

This temporary loss of perfect coordination affects control, often leaving the fastball up in the strike zone. It also produces a slower spin rate, resulting in less movement of the fastball, making the pitch more easily hittable.

The remedy is simple. Rest. Skip a start. Add an extra rest day to the cycle. Or send the pitcher to the bullpen, where the workload is lighter. Pitchers, however, sometimes work harder in response, worsening the problem.

Because the restoration can take days, the workouts between outings that forcefully activate the fast-glycolytic fibers of the pitching muscles — such as wrist curls, chin-ups, long tossing, or near-game-speed bullpen throwing sessions — delay the full recharging of glycogen.The effect of muscle micro-trauma on restoration can be seen in the contrast between a no-hitter and the game after the no-hitter, particularly with high pitch counts. Johan Santana threw a no-hitter on June 1, the first in New York Mets history. Seven days later, he gave up six earned runs and four homers in five innings. His manager was blamed for the dismal performance because he delayed the next start by two days. It would likely have been even worse, however, had Mr. Santana stuck to the five-day cycle.
Compared to pitchers of a century ago, pitchers today routinely throw faster, expending more stored energy per pitch. They also train harder during the season, depleting more glycogen between starts. Bad games, short outings, shellings, and inconsistent pitching were less common 100 years ago. There was no All-Star Game then — and no need for a midseason break to forestall pitching fatigue.
William Blewett, who writes from Bel Air, is the author of "The Science of the Fastball" (McFarland & Co.), to be released this fall. His email is wkblewett@aol.com.

Dave,   a friend of mine sent this article to me and I'm forwarding because I know this type of physiology is right in the middle of your expertise and interests.   Bill Blewett , the writer , is a physicist who also ran a 4:02 mile back in the 60's and a sub 14:00 minute 3 mile.  In high school he never broke 5minutes for the mile.  He came to Oklahoma the year after I left, and we only met a few years ago.  His son is pitching in the minor leagues, so that's what peeked his interest in the science of throwing.     Some day Bill  may come to Dayton for a visit, and I'd like to bring him over to Muncie to meet you and pick your brain a bit.     George

George and Bill

Yes, in the 1980s we looked at glycogen storage after exercise that had induced some tissue damage and found a very slow recovery.  Per Blom and I did studies after marathons that showed a very slow glycogen recovery, primarily due to the inflammatory response tissue damage and complete depletion.  However, it is hard to say how this translates into pitching and the injuries caused by excessive training.  I had many arguments with top level coaches who insisted on excessive training with the philosophy that "the athlete that trains the hardest is the best."  Boy, that's an easy one to deflate, but highly motivated coaches and athletes don't want to be confused by facts!  I'm sure many athletes never realize their full potential, simply because they trained too hard.
Dave Costill

George, 

It was great to get this note and its affirmation of the effect of slowed glycogen restoration.  Thank you.
The observation that led to my search about this effect came from that photo taken of me and the other milers at the 1967 Big 8 conference meet in Norman.

 
Bill



Note from Bruce Kritzler, Savannah , GA
George, Bill, etc,
Thanks for sharing the article on pitching in baseball (and obvious applications to distance running/racing).
I believe all recovery is aerobic related? Would pitchers benefit from running easy distance on off days, for recovery of arms, shoulders, wrist, fingers?
Have always felt the ability to race well late in the season is getting the right mix of aerobic/anaerobic (distance/speed) throughout the year. Definitely agree that most high schoolers are over-raced. Guess not every athlete has to run every meet. Some meets can be used as development type meets for novices, while big invitationals can be used for top flight kids.
Bruce

Note from Rick Lower , Beaverton, OR

George-
Always enjoy your topics, this one more than most! I wanted to give you my recent POV with the issue of “overtraining” in high school runners here in Oregon. There seem to be two prevalent camps, with neither  allowing kids to reach their potential.
-Camp one are the programs run by coaches who know the power of Lydiard training, but don’t control the pace or surfaces run on adequately. Consequently, we have kids running 60-70-80 miles /week but get sick of it or get injured. As long as they can get a lot of kids out each season, their programs are successful because they always have enough kids that can withstand the pounding.
-Camp two are the programs that tried the above, then decided to blame mileage for the injuries. Subsequently, they pride themselves on low mileage but replace the miles with too many workouts of intervals/tempos, basically hard workouts to try to make up for the lack of aerobic base work. Just as many injuries as camp one for different reasons.

Take care!


Rick

V 15 N. 10 Gunder 'The Wunder' Haegg Visits Cincinnati

Bob Roncker of Cincinnati, Ohio has sent in this account of one day on the 1943 tour that Gunder Haegg of Sweden made to the US to help rais...